Scientific Colloquium
April 29, 2011


"Rogue Waves in the Ocean"

“Rogue waves” are commonly defined as waves with wave height H ≥ 2.2 H_s , where H_s
is the significant wave height (typically the average of the highest one third of the waves).
Reports of their existence have long been dismissed as mere anecdote. However, in-situ
measurements, indirect evidence by damaged offshore structures and vessels, and remote sensing
with satellite based Synthetic Aperture Radars provide clear evidence of these rare events. Recently,
an award-winning journalist and book author described rogue waves as “walls of water that defy the
laws of physics”, and a leading newspaper stated: “Rogue waves operate outside the rules of
physics”. This is certainly not true, but the exact manner in which the rules of physics apply to
the generation of rogue waves is still an area of active scientific research.

I will use analytical models, statistical concepts, and simulations, all premised on basic physical concepts,
to highlight some of the processes that lead to the generation of extreme waves.
A summary of some open key issues--and the possible use of remote-sensing
methods to address them--will be given.


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